The 2011 Chablis Les Clos doesn’t quite have the refinement of the 2010, but it is intriguing just the same. Sweet, botrytised-like notes meld into a rich fabric of minerals, slate and ash. The crystalline purity of Clos comes through most vividly on the finish. With time in the glass, the 2011 becomes richer and weightier. It will be interesting to see the direction the 2011 takes over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released) Domaine Laroche is back in the US market after an absence of several years. The house style is marked by a search for considerable textural richness, which makes these some of the deeper, more opulent wines made in Chablis. Over the last few years, Domaine Laroche has begun to focus on organic viticulture and increased the use of indigenous yeasts, both of which are rare in Chablis. All of the Domaine Laroche wines are bottled under screwcap, also rare in Chablis, especially at this level. Winemaker Gregory Viennois told me the 2011 harvest started on September 12, towards the later side for the village. Viennois noted that potential alcohols and acidities were quite similar for both 2010 and 2011, which is unusual among the top domaines in Chablis. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661