The home property of Jean-Luc Thunevin, the inspirational spirit for Bordeaux’s garagiste movement, is Valandraud. The 2003 is a full-bodied, powerful St.-Emilion offering up notes of espresso roast, chocolate, sweet currants and cherries, and hints of minerals as well as cedar. Expressive and pure, with copious tannins lurking behind the cascade of fruit and glycerin, this wine requires 2-4 years of bottle age, and should drink well for two decades or more.

Tasted blind at the Valandraud vertical at the property, the 2003 Valandraud did nothing to dispel my doubts about the longevity of this wine. It is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc matured in new oak for 20 months, actually the shortest duration from 2000 to date. It has a light and rather ephemeral bouquet that just seems to drift away in the (non-existent) breeze. Despite coaxing, this offers little compared to the 2002 or 2004 either side. The palate is medium-bodied with a rather chewy, meaty opening. There is dry fruit here that lacks joie-de-vivre, some presence but not life, and it feels bitter on the finish. It is simply a case of the merciless heat of the growing season vanquishing longevity. As such, given how many Valandrauds from mediocre vintages are maturing so well, I would consume bottles in the near future. Tasted December 2016.

Intense aromas of blackberry, chocolate and spice. Full-bodied, with firm tannins and loads of fruit. Long. Spicy and chewy. This has guts. Structured. Best after 2010. 1,000 cases made. -JS

89-91 One of the original garage wines, Valandraud has worked in 2003 because the terroir is good. There may be huge tannins, but somehow the fruit pushes through, giving the promise of a ripe, polished wine. Imported by Royal Wine Corporation.——R.V.(6/3/2004)—— 90