The dark ruby/purple-hued 2007 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block is produced from a cold area of the Russian River’s Green Valley. It exhibits a saturated dark ruby hue as well as sweet black raspberry, clove, wild strawberry, incense, crushed rock, and floral notes. This bold, deep, medium to full-bodied Pinot displays zesty acidity as well as silky tannins. It should drink well for a decade. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

This is from a block of younger vines made from Dijon clones within the larger Arrendell Vineyard. The wine is quite full-bodied and robust, almost rustic, which is mainly due to the powerful, young tannins. With explosive berry, currant and mocha flavors, this powerful wine should hit its stride in mid-2010.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 95