Top-notch, although slightly tannic and earthy, the 2003 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkeye Mountain emerges from a very high elevation (1,822 feet) vineyard planted with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Its dense purple color is followed by a stony, earthy, terroir-driven nose, black currants, high tannin, and a backward, primordial personality. It requires 2-3 more years of bottle age to round into shape. Only time will tell whether the tannin or fruit will ultimately dominate. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

From one of the highest vineyards in the Sonoma Mayacamas comes this profoundly structured, deeply tannic Cab, which also is quite oaky. Bone dry and relatively closed and astringent, it’s of very fine quality, |and desperately needs time. Twenty years isn’t out of the question to allow the nuclear core of blackberries and cherries to unfurl. ——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 93