The opaque ruby/purple-hued 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon S.L.V. Vineyard Estate exhibits medium to full body along with more concentration, intensity, depth, ripeness and structure. From a 36.5-acre estate vineyard contiguous to the Fay site, this offering may be the finest S.L.V. cuvee made in several decades. It needs another 1-3 years of bottle age, but should drink well for 15+. Dramatic improvements are clearly underway at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, which was sold to a consortium led by Tuscany’s Piero Antinori in 2007. Antinori brought in well-known consultant Renzo Cotarella to improve the quality and, hopefully, get this winery back to the lofty heights it achieved in the seventies and early eighties. They seem to be well on their way, which is good news for consumers. This is a large estate of 104 acres, all situated as one giant block of vineyards in the southern part of the Stags Leap appellation. The change in ownership and winemaking staff shows progressive improvement with each vintage starting with 2007. The 2009s look to be their best wines to date. As for the 2007 reds, normally four cuvees are produced, all based on Cabernet Sauvignon, including the Cask 23, which comes from the best lots from the Fay and S.L.V. estate vineyards after fermentations are completed. The most impressive Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars’ offerings made since the 1985 vintage are the three 2009s I was permitted to taste from barrel. Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501

A very good, rich Cabernet, softly dry and tannic and stuffed with blackberry, black currant, olive, dark chocolate and cedar flavors. Feels lush and powerful, but not particularly impressive given the wine’s reputation and price. Could be a sleeper. Cellar it and see where it goes.——S.H.(4/1/2011)—— 88