The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon SLV Estate emerges from the glass with dark plums, black cherries, smoke, licorice and tar as well as terrific intensity and depth. It is one of the better and more complete of the 2008s here. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. The changes that have taken place at Stags Leap Wine Cellars over the last few years are nothing less than stunning. The Antinori family bought a 15% stake in Stags Leap Wine Cellars in 2007 and was appointed technical director as part of the deal. Long time winemaker Renzo Cotarella, who oversees all of the Antinori wines in Italy plus Antica on Atlas Peak, was brought in to consult. Sadly, the 2008 Cabernets are plagued by brett and are largely disappointing, especially considering the quality these vineyards are capable of. Some of the other recent releases I tasted were frankly undrinkable. Quality takes a meaningful step up in 2009 as the Cabernets acquire elegance and finesse. For some of the bottlings, though, the most obvious jump in quality is from 2009 and 2010. Either way, these new and upcoming releases are compelling and merit significant attention. I can’t possibly understate the huge impact Antinori, Renzo Cotarella and the team at Stags Leap Wine Cellars are having on the 2009s and 2010s. These are going to be fascinating wines to follow over the coming years and decades. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the Artemis and Cask 23 2010s as the final blends had not yet been made at the time of my tastings. Tel. (707) 944-2020; www.cask23.com

An awesome Cabernet, so elegant, powerful and refined. As softly attractive as it is, it has a reserve of power that should enable it to age effortlessly. Ripe, sweet tannins house exorbitant flavors of blackberries and cassis, accented with new oak. It makes for a full-bodied, showy 100% Cabernet, drinkable now and over the next 15 years.——S.H.(4/1/2012)—— 95