No doubt about it, this is a big, lusty Pinot Noir. From a low-production parcel of the estate, it routinely produces immensely concentrated wines. The winemaker’s challenge is to give balance and harmony to grapes of this heft, and here, Iron Horse has it figured out. Dry and enormously ripe in cherries, black raspberries, cocoa and cola, it’s good now with lamb chops, grilled steaks and similar upscale fare, and should soften and improve for five years.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 95