The 2014 Merlot Desiderio is a bold and forthcoming red wine that peels back with thick layers of aromatic intensity. The bouquet is deeply endowed with black cherry, toasted espresso and sweet mocha. This is a soft and luscious wine that wraps thickly over the whole palate, from front to back. The finish is a bit leaner than that bold bouquet would have you initially think.

The estate’s 2007 Cortona Merlot Desiderio is a full throttle, opulent wine laced with jammy blueberries, mint, spices and French oak. Hints of port-like sweetness linger on the finish. The Desiderio is a decidedly extroverted wine, but everything works within the context of this style of winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Avignonesi is one of the best-known names in Tuscany. Once again, the Vin Santos are the show stoppers. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Desiderio, a legendary Italian Merlot, shows slightly sour aromas this vintage with cherry, pressed flowers, natural rubber and spice. It’s a hearty, well-concentrated wine with loads of density and intense cherry fruit on the close. ——M.L.(2/1/2012)—— 90

The 2006 Cortona Merlot Desiderio is frankly a perplexing wine. There is good density and richness in the ripe dark fruit, but the French oak completely dominates the wine’s balance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. The highlights among these new releases from Avignonesi, not surprisingly, are the Vin Santos, which in 1997 are nothing short of utterly profound. The wines actually benefit from being opened at least several hours prior to being served. As we went to press the Falvo family announced the sale of its remaining 10% holding in the winery to Virginie Saverys, director of Compagnie Maritime Belge, a Belgian shipping company. Ms. Saverys has been a shareholder since 2007. Based on the reds I have tasted here throughout the years there certainly seems to be an opportunity to increase quality in many of the wines. It is hard to imagine any proprietor in their right mind doing anything to touch the Vin Santos, as these remain some of the most profound wines in the world. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405