The 2004 Brut Vintage is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, partially fermented in barrel (20%) and bottled with no dosage. The wine reveals excellent up-front intensity in its ripe yellow fruit and broad-shouldered frame but then falls a bit short on the mid-palate. Compared to the finest wines here, the 2004 Brut Vintage offers a two, rather than three-dimensional sense of aromatic and flavor complexity. This is Lot: L 556997 32009J. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. The Billecart-Salmon house style is defined by class, elegance, and a sublime freshness to the wines. Long fermentations at cold temperatures with no malolactic fermentation are the rule at this small, family-owned property in Mareuil-sur-Ay. I also had a chance to re-taste the 2000 Brut Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon 2000 Brut Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart (reviewed last year). Both wines showed beautifully. Readers will find updated notes on www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999