Another stunner is the 2020 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, a striking wine that soars from the glass with aromas of cherries, rose petals, wild berries, sweet spices and loamy soil. Full-bodied, ample and concentrated, it's deep and layered, with an enveloping core of vibrant fruit and a long, penetrating finish.

The 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, soaring from the glass with scents of cherries and sweet berries mingled with warm spices, licorice, rose petals and peonies. Full-bodied, layered and seamless, it's sensual and enveloping, with a succulent core of fruit, terrific concentration and a long, perfumed finish. Elegant and complete, this is as fine a Charmes-Chambertin as I can remember tasting chez Dugat, and while it's almost disconcertingly approachable young, it should enjoy a long life.

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has turned out brilliantly, wafting from the glass with a compelling bouquet of cherries, wild berries, peonies, dark chocolate, licorice and spices. Full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, its fleshy core of fruit is built around powdery tannins and succulent acids, complemented by inviting sapid nuance. I'm very happy to have several bottles aging in my cellar.