The star of my visit to Diamond Creek was the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill, which shows awesome purity and length. Vanilla accents blackberry, cassis and plum notes on the nose, while the full-bodied palate is rich and velvety, leading into a tremendously long finish, bursting with classic Cabernet fruit. It could use a few years in the cellar to gain nuance, and it should drink well for two decades or more after that.

Loads of blue fruit, violets and lavender. Flowers everywhere. Full body and medium chewy tannins. Bright and vivid. Tangy and long. Needs four to five years to open. Try in 2022.

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill is a little youthfully subdued and broody at this early stage, revealing black soil, truffles and tapenade notions over a blackberry and cassis core, plus a touch of chocolate box. The medium to full-bodied palate springs to life with vibrant black fruit and subtle earth and savory suggestions, framed by rounded tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long.

From the biggest of the three vineyards, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill comes from pure volcanic, iron-rich, rocky white tufa of volcanic origin. Marginally speaking, this is bluer and blacker than the Red Rock Terrace or Gravelly Meadow. A tour de force of perfection, this wine offers up crème de cassis, blueberry liqueur, licorice, earth, truffle and graphite. It displays spectacular richness, magnificent balance and texture, and a long, incredibly pure finish of close to a minute. This remarkable, full-bodied elixir should drink beautifully for another 30+ years, if not longer.

From an eight-acre block of the producer's iconic estate, this is a velvety smooth, darkly colored wine, luxuriously structured to age yet deliciously appealing now. Chocolate, blackberry, currant and a leathery, smoky edge combine forcefully on the palate with length and breadth. Drink now through 2023.