The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is lovely, mingling aromas of cherries, berries and plums with hints of vine smoke in an incipiently complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's layered and nicely concentrated, with a seamless, charming profile.

The 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes wafts from the glass with aromas of wild berries, rose petals, orange rind and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with succulent acids and rich, powdery tannins, this is also a notable success.

There are four barrels of the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, a pretty, delicate, medium-bodied wine that's perfumed and charming, evoking notions of petals, plums and red berries. As is often the case, this is a refined middleweight.

The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes is elegant this year, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berries, orange rind and a deft framing of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with powdery tannins and good energy, displaying good focus and structural finesse.

The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes offers up aromas of plummy fruit, candied peel and smoky grilled meats, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny palate that's pure and melting this year, concluding with a stony finish. It's a pretty middle-weight Clos des Chênes that will drink well in its comparative youth.