This medium-to-dark ruby-colored offering has sweet cherry aromas immersed in Asian spices. It is a broad, ripe, austere, highly-structured, and concentrated wine crammed with cassis-liqueur, road tar, game, and roasted spices. Somewhat backward and unyielding, it will require cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2009. This wine is the last this estate will produce. Christophe Roumier's cousin Laurent has re-claimed the parcel for his newly-founded domaine (see Domaine Laurent Roumier). Roumier informed me he was planning to bottle his 1996s earlier than usual to "trap the fruit." He is of the opinion that they will not be exuberant, charming, and seductive following bottling. Virtually every vigneron agreed that the 1996s have been a delight to drink from the moment the grapes were pressed. Yet Roumier thinks they will need years to be expressive. Those 1996s that I have tasted stateside have maintained their forward, fruity character, but time will tell. Importer: Chateaux and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; Tel; (212) 572-7725.

This estate's 1995 Clos Vougeot displays a medium-ruby/purple color and scents and flavors of elegant, fat, ripe, stuffed dark fruits. Medium-to-full bodied, this thick-textured, complex and powerful wine has a tannic backbone that will require 5 years of cellaring, it should last for 10+ years subsequently. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. The harvest took place here on September 29 for the Corton-Charlemagne and between October 2 and 9 for the reds. Yields averaged 28 hectoliters/hectare. Overall, Roumier's 1995s are stunning wines. They have breathtaking ripeness of fruit, elegance, power and texture. Bravo! Importer: Chateau and Estate Wine Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725