Leroy's brilliant 2019 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with loamy soil, black truffles and orange rind, framed by a deft application of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's rich and muscular, with a concentrated core of fruit underpinned a generous endowment of ripe, powdery tannins and concluding with a long, mineral finish.

Notes of sweet berries, spices, orange rind, rose petals and loamy soil, framed by a deft patina of new oak, introduce Leroy's 2018 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, a full-bodied, rich and concentrated wine that's muscular and fleshy, with a tightly wound core, powdery tannins and a long, penetrating finish. Like the Clos de Vougeot, this is another of the portfolio's habitually more reserved wines that is—comparatively speaking—unusually demonstrative this year.

This cuvée is always one of the more powerful, muscular wines in the cellar, and the 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is no exception. Exhibiting complex aromas of smoked meats, dark berries, rich soil tones, cassis, warm spices and black truffles, the wine is full-bodied, deep and structured, with considerable reserves of concentration and powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a long and mineral finish.

The 2016 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is striking, bursting from the glass with aromas of wild berries, grilled game, dark chocolate, cinnamon and violets. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered and searingly concentrated, with a bottomless core of fruit, rich but supple structuring tannins, and a long, muscular finish. Above all, however, this wine is thrillingly vibrant, endowed with energy that evokes the 2010 rendition. It will need time, certainly, and it remains one of the more structural wines in the portfolio; but, if anything, it's less tight-knit than the 2015.

Like the Clos de Vougeot, the 2015 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru from Domaine Leroy is built for the ages, opening in the glass with a bouquet of red-black berries, cherries, wood smoke, pencil shavings and incipient suggestions of soil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and firm, with an ample and assertive chassis of chalky tannins, formidable power and concentration, with a long, grippy finish. This is cut from very different cloth than the Musigny that preceded it in our tasting, but it is taut rather than hard: the only missing ingredient is time.