The 2009 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block is a silky, mid-weight wine laced with sweet red berries, flowers, licorice and mint. This is a fairly restrained, cold-weather style for the Russian River built on linearity, energy and focus. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. Proprietor Don Hartford and his winemaker Jeff Stewart have fashioned an impressive colletion of Chardonnays, Pinots and Zinfandels. The Chardonnays are fermented with native yeasts and see significant lees stirring. The Pinots spend 15 months in French oak barrels, 30-55% new. The Zinfandels typically see 9-12 months in barrel, which seems a bit on the short side for wines that have so much to say. All of the wines are bottled unfiltered.Tel. (800) 588-0234

The pomegranate and red currant-scented 2008 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block reveals tart acids as well as a slightly austere style. Owned by Jess Jackson and Don Hartford and assisted by winemaker Jeff Mangalas, Hartford Court is one of the bright shining stars in Jess Jackson Family Vineyard’s impressive portfolio. All three Chardonnays come from cool climate sites, either the Sonoma Coast or the Green Valley. I tasted five 2008 Pinot Noirs, a challenging vintage for some producers but Hartford Court had no smoke issues.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

The dark ruby/purple-hued 2007 Pinot Noir Hailey’s Block is produced from a cold area of the Russian River’s Green Valley. It exhibits a saturated dark ruby hue as well as sweet black raspberry, clove, wild strawberry, incense, crushed rock, and floral notes. This bold, deep, medium to full-bodied Pinot displays zesty acidity as well as silky tannins. It should drink well for a decade. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707