The 2008 RESERVA is lovely, refined, suave and elegant, with a soft, caressing texture and burst of flavor lingering on the finish. Everything seems rather well integrated here, hardly a hair out of place, although it does need a little time to integrate the oak just a bit better. There is steel underneath, even if it opens with a bit of a creamy texture. With air, it shows off its structure and intensity, the tannins providing some grip on the finish. The more I drank this sexy Southerner, the more I liked it. I think it will age gracefully and it still has some considerable potential to improve in the cellar, although it is quite approachable. Drink now-2020. Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

The 2007 Reserva Tinto is, said the winery to me, a blend of 30% Aragones, 30% Trincadeira, 20% Alicante Bouschet and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, although the label is not always clear on this. At the moment, it is overwhelmed by the sweet vanilla nuances of oak. Quite graceful in the mid-palate, it shows some power as wakes up and the fruit takes on some character as it evolves. I think this is a wine that might grow on a taster as it evolves, but it probably needs a couple of years of cellaring to pull itself together and have a chance to integrate its oak better, which it will do. It took a long time playing with it to get it to come around, but the fruit finally emerged and the oak receded. Drink now-2019. This iconic Southern Portuguese winery has a lot of new labels this year, which generally look pretty good. The labels for the Reserva and Private Selection, of course, feature art by Portuguese artists - see all the back labels for details. The monovarietal wines now come with just a big letter or two on the front - like "S" for Syrah or "V" for Verdelho. The details are on the label in smaller print.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

With an Australian winemaker at the helm, it''s no surprise this is a lesson in modern, faultless winemaking. Cabernet Sauvignon is the only international intruder in this indigenous Portuguese blend. The oak is well-knit, supporting black and red fruits topped with a pinch of spice. Classy. £14.25