The ruggedly constructed, backward 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits tar, cedar, and black currant aromas and flavors, medium to full body, and an astringent, spicy, robust, tough-textured finish. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 12-15 years. Tel. (707) 887-1507; Fax (707) 887-1337

From a very good vintage comes this deeply fruity, 100% Cab, with soft tannins. Won’t appeal to the big-oak school that seems to dominate these days. But if you’re looking for succulent berry and spice flavors that come from the earth, not a barrel, look no further.——W.E.(11/1/1999)—— 91

The stylish, understated, restrained, redcurrant nose is attractive, but once the wine lands on the palate, the high level of tart acidity caused this taster to forget the good aromatics, and reach for a glass of Pellegrino. The wine is narrowly constructed (largely because of the high acid's influence on the texture), and cleanly made, but essentially one-dimensional and innocuous except for its acidic sharpness. It has lost its baby fat, and, lamentably, reveals too much structure and not enough depth.The tasting notes for this section are from two single blind tastings, one conducted in May, 1996, in California, and the other in June, 1996, in Baltimore.