Pale to medium ruby, the 2016 Pinot Noir Thomas Road Vineyard opens earthy on the nose with nori, mushroom, warm earth and tarry hints over a core of baked red and black berries. Light to medium-bodied, the palate gives up dried herbs and earth-accented red berry flavors in the mouth, with a frame of fine, grainy tannins and juicy freshness to carry the long, savory finish. 415 cases produced.

The 2015 Pinot Noir Thomas Road Vineyard is pale ruby-purple in color and delicately scented of red roses, dusty soil and cinnamon with a core of kirsch and warm red plums. Medium-bodied with a great intensity of expressive red berry flavors, it has a grainy texture and plenty of freshness, finishing long and perfumed. 220 cases produced.

No doubt about it, this is a big, lusty Pinot Noir. From a low-production parcel of the estate, it routinely produces immensely concentrated wines. The winemaker’s challenge is to give balance and harmony to grapes of this heft, and here, Iron Horse has it figured out. Dry and enormously ripe in cherries, black raspberries, cocoa and cola, it’s good now with lamb chops, grilled steaks and similar upscale fare, and should soften and improve for five years.——S.H.(9/1/2007)—— 95