Ripeness of fruit and tart acidity combine to make this a fine, drily elegant coastal Chardonnay. Beyond the great structure are savory flavors of pineapples and green apples, with rich notes of honeysuckle flower and a grounding tug of minerality. ——S.H.(7/1/2010)—— 92

The 2006 Chardonnay Freestone Vineyard Ovation reveals crisp lemon blossom, white citrus, crushed rock, flower, and orange blossom characteristics, and beautiful texture, freshness, and elegance. It is undeniably a successful Chardonnay in a challenging vintage for this varietal in Sonoma. This can be enjoyed over the next 2-3 years. The Freestone Vineyard, a 100-acre, cool climate site planted on the Sonoma Coast by Joseph Phelps, is finally coming into production, offering consumers a bevy of different Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. There are three Chardonnay offerings, all of which emphasize the minerality and citrusy characteristics of this varietal with little intrusive oak, despite the fact that they are barrel-fermented and aged primarily in new French oak. The Cabernet Sauvignon program consists of three wines, the Cabernet Sauvignon, their famous proprietary red wine called Insignia, and their single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from the western hillsides of Oakville, called Backus. The regular Cabernet is a solidly made, reliable effort usually comprised of about 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, Petit Verdot, and occasionally Malbec. The single vineyard offering comes from Oakville’s Backus Vineyard. There are typically 1,500-2,500 cases produced from this biodynamically farmed vineyard. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

Acidity, dryness and steely minerality characterize this Chard. It has lemon and vanilla flavors that are brisk and clean. It’s refreshing to get such an elegant alternative to today’s ripe, fruity Chards. Gets better and better as it warms in the glass. Drink this brilliant wine with shellfish, sourdough bread and lots of butter.——S.H.(9/1/2009)—— 94