The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkeye Mountain is a cool, introspective wine. Dark red fruit, mocha, crushed flowers, graphite, licorice and spices wrap around the intense, palate staining finish. The Hawkeye Mountain is all about finesse. I especially like the way the wine continues to put on weight with time in the glass. The 2009 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the northern part of Alexander Mountain Estate Vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. I must say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Kendall-Jackson. Qualitatively the wine are head and shoulders above the vast majority of what is available in the same price points, but what amazes me most is Kendall-Jackson’s ability to achieve such a high average level of quality with production levels that are truly eye-popping. In 2010, which was not an abundant year, Kendall-Jackson produced nearly 2,000,000 cases of the flagship Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This is a brilliant showing from winemaker Randy Ullom and his team comprised of Matthew Smith (reds) and Mark Theis (whites).Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Hawkeye Mountain from the Alexander Valley offers sweet blackberry, loamy soil, new oak, and spice notes. It is more concentrated as well as more tannic than the Trace Ridge Cabernet. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Shows the soft tannins and slight herbal quality of a top Alexander Valley Cab, along with low-yield mountain concentration of red and black currants, mocha and spice. Drink this polished, supple wine through 2012.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 92

Generous cassis nose, ripe, but not overly. Opulent, but tannin creeps up, a lot of alcohol too. Ungainly, no lift or finesse.