Citrus zest, fruit pit, huckleberry, and white pepper lend Trimbach’s 2009 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile an aromatic piquancy and tactile bite that – allied to an oily texture – might pull a bit too much in a bitter direction were it not for a satisfying and far from vintage-typical abundance of exuberantly juicy lime, tangerine, and kiwi. A high-toned aura of pit fruit distillate hovers over the entire performance. Crushed stone and alkaline mineral notes add depth to an invigoratingly and tenaciously lingering finish. This ought to perform admirably in the classic Frederic Emile role for at least 12-15 years. (Incidentally, it’s bone dry, at 13.5% alcohol.) “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Lilac, fresh lime and alkaline notes in the nose of Trimbach’s 2008 Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile are harbingers of a rivetingly bright, seemingly mineral-suffused palate that also features a greenhouse like inner-mouth profusion of floral and leafy scents and the stimulating bite of lime peel and huckleberry. Like its lesser siblings, this boasts an almost severe sense of concentration as well as prominent piquancy and citricity, all of which combine for a somewhat austere impression that in this instance argues for simply setting bottles aside for 5-7 years before beginning to track and savor the wine for the decade following. As usual, the winery itself does its part to guarantee restraint, since this vintage of Frederic Emile will not be released any earlier than 2013. The sheer persistence and penetration of this bottling go well beyond that of the corresponding reserve bottling, and given the track record for Frederic Emile one can also anticipate considerably more complexity with time. “The oenologists were saying in 2009 ‘Oh we have to get approval so that we can add acidity,’ but it was absolutely unnecessary, for us,” notes Pierre Trimbach, who indeed delivered a surprisingly animated collection, albeit one diminished in size by instances of declassification. The Trimbachs compare their 2008s with 1998, adding that there is something of 2001 to them, too. As a group, they are going to further the reputation of wines from this family for rewarding patience.Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Racy, finely tuned acidity frames this elegant white, supporting a subtle, layered palate. Shows base notes of petrol and brine, tangy apple, grapefruit zest, fresh forest and candle wax. Long, long minerally finish. Drink now through 2027. 5,000 cases made. –AN

This shows the riper fruit character of 2006—baked apricot and apple, with hints of guava and dried papaya—but considerably more acidity then is typical for the vintage, resulting in a finely cut, lively white. A minerally base adds stony smoke and spice notes, gaining momentum toward the lingering finish of chamomile and honeycomb. Drink now through 2026. 3,000 cases made. -AN