No matter how hard you try to tame Petite Sirah and make it civilized, it retains its feral, rustic nature, which is what makes it such an interesting wine in the right hands. Quivira has “claretized” this wine, yoking the intense cassis, currant, cocoa, gamy leather and pepper flavors to finely ground tannins and a modest alcohol level. But it’s still a quintessentially wild Petite Sirah. Drink now through 2017.——S.H.(3/1/2008)—— 91