The 2012 Zinfandel Benito Dusi Ranch (a 90-year-old parcel) is a big, boisterous effort (14.8% natural alcohol) that is best drunk in its first 4-6 years of life. An earthy, spicy, peppery, meaty, full-bodied wine, it exhibits lots of dark brambleberry and briery fruit in a fleshy, straightforward, succulent, tasty style.

The 2010 Zinfandel Paso Robles Benito Dusi Ranch wraps around the palate with soft, lush fruit. This is distinctly Paso in its opulent, generous personality. Dark red cherries, flowers and spices flesh out on the finish. The Benito Dusi is delicious, but it stops just shy of being truly distinctive. On the plus side, it is more approachable than some of the other 2010s and should drink well upon release. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Indiana Jones and I have one thing in common – a fear of snakes. That is why every time I see the sign in the Ridge parking lot that reads “Beware of rattlesnakes,” I get a little uneasy. So it’s quickly into the tasting room for me. Winemaker Eric Baugher and his team have prepared a great tasting covering all of the Ridge classics, plus a few smaller-production bottlings I am tasting for the first time. This is a sublime set of new releases from one of this country’s greatest heritage wineries. It’s hard to know where to start, but the highlights are the 2009 Monte Bello, followed by the 2010, which will be released this year, plus some of the Zinfandels and Zinfandel-based wines. The 2010 harvest was not an easy one. The summer was very cold, as it was throughout California. Ridge was severely affected by August heat spikes that were crippling for Zinfandel. The wines that were bottled are the result of a severe selection of the best fruit that survived the heat. Tel. (408) 867-3233

An outstanding effort, the 2001 Zinfandel Dusi Ranch (14.5% alcohol) displays loads of black cherry jam-like notes intertwined with pepper and underbrush. Dense, full-bodied, and peppery, with great fruit purity as well as presence, it should be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

A lean-styled effort with tangy acidity as well as attractive red currant aromas and flavors is the well-made, but understated 1999 Zinfandel Dusi Ranch (ATP). A 100% Zinfandel from the well-known vineyard in San Luis Obispo, it reveals noticeable acidity as well as Burgundian-like texture and weight. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Tel. (408) 867-3233

The 1998 Dusi Ranch (the only 100% Zinfandel offering tasted from Ridge) exhibits aromas of roasted peanuts and smoky, black cherry and currant fruit. There is good structure and delineation, a dense, rich, medium to full-bodied palate, and a long, concentrated finish. Interestingly, the back label indicated this was the first time in over twenty-five years that the Dusi Ranch was harvested in October because of the extremely cold, wet spring. Tel. (408) 867-3233