The vineyard that produces the 2008 Barbera in all likelihood dates back to the founding of the Seghesio winery in 1895 by Eduardo Seghesio. This dark ruby/purple wine has a big, sweet kiss of berry fruit, black cherries, and incense. More supple than most Italian Barberas, but displaying loads of fruit and an exuberant, soulful personality, this is a delicious, consumer-friendly Barbera to drink over the next 2-3 years. A perfect pizza wine? Among the great Italian heritage families in Northern California (and there are many of those), Seghesio continues to set a high standard for quality and attractive value.Tel. (707) 433-3579; Fax (707) 433-0545

This is a rich, sweetly decadent Barbera that offers a richness seldom seen in the variety, although the tannins are thick and classic. With blackberry, leather, teriaki beef and spice flavors, it will be a good companion for smoky ribs.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 88