The 2001 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva della Mattonara bursts from the glass with endless layers of silky fruit. White flowers, French oak, new leather and spices blossom as the wine opens up. A super-refined, insistent finish leaves a strong impression. The Riserva della Mattonara is 40% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta and 5% Croatina. The wine was fermented in cement vats and spent a whopping nine years in a combination of casks and smaller barrels. Today the French oak is a bit dominant. As good as the 2001 Riserva is, it can’t quite match the 2006 Harlequin, the wine that remains the pinnacle of achievement at Zyme. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021. Celestino Gaspari was once Giuseppe Quintarelli’s heir-apparent. Today he makes wines under his own label, the best of which show Gaspari is blazing his own trail as one of the most exciting producers in Valpolicella. Importer: Riviera Imports, Long Island City, NY; tel. (561) 542-0456