The most intensely aromatic of this year’s Boyer-Martenot collection, a 2007 Meursault Perrieres combines some of the carnal and musky notes found in the corresponding Genevrieres with pungent citrus oil, narcissus, and a hint of sweat. A similarly intriguing complexity informs the creamy yet bright, forwardly, juicily citric yet (as befits the nose-bleed location of the estate’s parcel) stony palate. Toasted almond and hazelnut add piquancy to the long, almost explosively citric and mineral finish. I would expect this to reward visits for at least the next 6-8 years. Vincent Boyer’s 2007s – all of which were bottled by the following September, and weigh in at 12.5-13% alcohol – display a diversity of personalities, but share a sense of transparency to nuance, and a consistency of quality not equaled by his 2006s. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93