The late-released 2007 Zinfandel San Lorenzo is primarily Zinfandel with some Petite Sirah and Carignan in the blend, which is typical of these old-vine parcels, planted by the first and second generation of Italian farmers to come to Northern California. Deep ruby/purple, with plenty of briary, berry fruit, the wine is peppery and spicy, with wonderful opulence and a full-bodied mouthfeel. Delicious already, but also complex and mouthfilling, this is a stunning California Zinfandel to drink over the next 4-5 years. Among the great Italian heritage families in Northern California (and there are many of those), Seghesio continues to set a high standard for quality and attractive value.Tel. (707) 433-3579; Fax (707) 433-0545

Zinfandel isn’t ordinarily a wine you want to age, but this dry, tannic bottle will improve in the cellar. Made from Seghesio’s estate vineyard in the southern Alexander Valley, it’s amazingly rich in mulberry, currant, spice and mineral flavors, with beautiful tannins and perfect acidity. It’s gorgeous now, with a few hours of decanting, but will show increasing interest over the next four to six years.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 94