Roumier’s 2008 Ruchottes-Chambertin is drop-dead gorgeous. Layers of dark fruit, violets, pepper and flowers meld together in this multi-dimensional, beautifully textured wine. Despite its weightless elegance, this shows plenty of vitality, and a cool vibrant personality that will fully emerge only after several additional years in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. My visit with Christophe Roumier was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy earlier in the year. The range of 2009s is simply extraordinary, and the 2008s aren’t too far behind. Most of the 2009s were in tank, awaiting imminent bottling. Roumier began harvesting on September 12. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600