The 2010 Ruchottes-Chambertin is quite weighty and rich. Darker shades of fruit emerge gradually from this implosive, inward wine. Black cherries, sweet spices, licorice and tar come together in the glass. There is an element of sensuality here that is striking. The Ruchottes finishes with terrific energy and precision. Roumier’s Ruchottes is farmed under a metayage agreement and bottled under the Christophe Roumier label rather than under the domaine label. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035. The only real problem with Christophe Roumier’s 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600