The 2009 Ruchottes-Chambertin is super-intense and powerful. Hints of graphite, flowers and dark fruit emerge over time, but this is a reluctant wine that has already begun to close down. The style is one that emphasizes depth and structure over finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier’s 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400