The 1988 Monte Bello is at its peak today, revealing a rustic bouquet of crème de cassis, cigar ash, leather and medicine cabinet that's marked by a touch of Brettanomyces—like many Bordeaux in this era. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, rich and quite multidimensional, with a generous core and a long, savory, spicy finish. The product of a hot summer, the 1988 was by all accounts somewhat austere in its youth, but its tannins have now melted away to reveal its briary mountain fruit. This was the second vintage of Monte Bello to be matured in entirely new wood, partly as an attempt to control brettanomyces; unfortunately, however, the yeast was able to feed on the oak sugars, making the problem worse. Tasters who don't mind this quality will want to add several points to my score, whereas those who're entirely intolerant of it will probably wish to deduct a few.

Both the 1989 and 1988 Monte Bellos are mediocre. The vegetal 1988 is tannic and angular, with excessive acidity for the amount of fruit present. It is likely to dry out and become attenuated.