From a year that Guffens describes as "the worst great vintage I ever made," the 1996 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with aromas of buttered toast, confit citrus, pear, almond paste and iodine. Full-bodied, deep and concentrated, it's immensely incisive, with considerable mid-palate volume built around a searing spine of acidity, concluding with a long and honeyed finish.