The current release is the outstanding 1996 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard (275 cases). In order to get a snapshot of what this wine is really about is to recognize that it is reminiscent of the finest grand crus I have tasted from such sites as Clos de la Roche and Clos St.-Denis. It shares an extraordinary minerality with fabulously concentrated plum, black cherry, blueberry/blackberry characteristics. It is full-bodied, dense, concentrated and alcoholic. The 1996 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard has not yet begun to reveal additional nuances, but it is the kind of Pinot Noir that suggests the Sonoma Coast, in 30-50 years, may be one of the world's most fashionable spots for this varietal.This wine is available through the winery's mailing list, although some preferred Napa Valley restaurants, particularly the French Laundry, and in New York (Daniel and La Bernadin), seem to receive noteworthy allocations. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633

Only 275 cases were made of this wine. While I consumed many bottles from my wine cellar, the 1996 was last tasted professionally in January, 2007, when it was showing better than my initial review of 95 points. Currently, it exhibits a dense, dark plum color as well as an exceptionally majestic bouquet of sweet plums, cherries, forest floor and red and black currants. With sweet, beautifully integrated tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, beautiful, exuberant fruit and gorgeous deepness, this fully mature 1996 displays little evidence of falling apart. This complex beauty should drink well for 5-10 more years. In my initial review, I remember writing that this type of Pinot Noir suggests that in 30 to 50 years, the Sonoma coast -may be one of the world-s most fashionable spots for this varietal.- It appears I was correct in my prediction, except for the tming, as it is already an incredibly hot spot.