The plum/ruby-colored, earthy, meaty, smoky 2001 Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard possesses Morey-St.-Denis-like characteristics of plums, mushrooms, forest floor, and flowers. Rich, medium to full-bodied, moderately tannic, and structured, it should be enjoyed between 2007-2015. Tel. (707) 258-3608; Fax (707) 942-5633

From barrel, this wine received a high rating, but in subsequent bottle tastings, this narrowly constructed, lean, muscular, moderate tannic Marcassin Pinot Noir continues to disappoint. It is still an outstanding Pinot, but in the league of great Pinot Noirs made by Marcassin from their Estate Vineyard on the Sonoma coast, the 2001 has usually left me wanting more. The wine still has a youthful, crisp, acid edge and is medium-bodied with moderate tannin as well as more red fruits, such as cranberries and red currants, along with forest floor, earth and spice notes. The finish is somewhat abrupt, and those who prefer austere, angular Pinot Noirs will enjoy it more than the richer, more showy vintages (i.e., 2000 and 2002).