The 2005 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard, which is made from the oldest vines (32-year-old heritage Martini clone Pinot Noir), exhibits a Grenache-like kirsch liqueur and raspberry fruitiness. Elegant, with medium to full-bodied flavors, great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, and a savory, medium to full-bodied finish, this wine should drink nicely for 5-6 years. New winemaker Jeff Mangahas has replaced the talented Mike Sullivan and has turned out a bevy of impressive wines. Hartford Court is undeniably one of the gems in Jess Jackson’s portfolio of boutique wineries. Tel. (800) 588-0234; Fax (800) 600-5895

This is a very serious Pinot Noir, one that will benefit from cellaring despite the drink-me-now deliciousness. It’s not just the fruit, which is deeply satisfying in cherries, raspberries, sweet rhubarb pie, blood oranges and juicy pomegranates. It’s the structure. Crisp acids and silky tannins create a near-perfect architecture. Elegant and sophisticated, this wine should develop additional complexities for at least six years, with proper cellaring.——S.H.(11/1/2007)—— 95