Kirsch liqueur, lavender, licorice, raspberry, and blueberry aromas jump from the glass of the 2007 Pinot Noir Arrendell Vineyard. From one of the estate’s oldest vineyards (34 years of age) planted with the Martini clone, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color, fabulous intensity, full-bodied power, and a 35-second finish, unusually long for Pinot Noir. This beauty should age for a decade or more. One of the best wineries in Sonoma, Hartford Family Winery, under the guidance of winemaker Jeff Mangalas, continues to fine tune an impressive portfolio of wines, all from cool climate sites. The top wines are Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs all sold under the Hartford Court label, followed by some Zinfandels (sold under the Hartford moniker) that merit more attention than they receive. All of the winery’s Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fermented with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled without fining or filtration. The three Chardonnays among the current releases are all outstanding. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel. (866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707

The winery’s most expensive wine comes from very low-yielding Martini selection grapes planted in 1975. The ’07, tasted at a bit more than one year of age, was pronounced in smoky oak and robust tannins, showing jammy flavors of blackberries, cherries, blueberries, anise, cloves and cedar. Hold this powerful wine until 2011.——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 95