The profound Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroye Vieilles Vignes has a deeply spicy nose and a thick, rich, broad, full-bodied character. This offering's mouth-feel is more reminiscent of a red wine's than a white. Layered minerals and gravel can be found in its concentrated, extracted and deep flavor profile. Its long and delineated finish reveals smoky nuts and traces of oak spice. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. This wine was tasted from barrel prior to racking. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.