The 2007 RESERVA BRANCO is a blend of Roupeiro, Arinto and Antao Vaz, three of the most popular white Portuguese grapes in Alentejo, aged for six months in new French and American oak. It is more or less the same as the Vinha da Defesa reviewed this issue--but with oak. Keep in mind that the “Reserva” in this winery’s lineup is not really an upper level wine. It only has a suggested retail of $20, and there were 20,000 cases produced, of which 2,000 were imported. Within that context, it performs very well, but I confess I rather prefer the winery’s touch with stainless steel. This is light and harmonious, elegant and graceful. It is obviously tinged with oak, which provides too much of the wine’s flavors at the outset. However, this is cleaner than the 2006, less dominated by oak. Some of the oak may integrate with time, and with air, I was pleased to see the charming, bright fruit shine through. I would not expect this to be a long lived wine, but it is nicely balanced. Drink now-2011. This old stalwart in Alentejo provides some of the best buys in Portugal. Its current lineup is notable for the number of fine values, even with the continuing problems with exchange rates (many of these prices may have been set before the recent resurgence of the dollar). Sometimes, the big question here is simply why you should bother to trade up to their more expensive wines.Importers: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Green herbal perfumes spiced with wood are a fine introduction to this delicious, spice- and citrus-flavored wine. The acidity gives it a lift, but it is the richness and velvet character of the white fruits that is most obvious. This is sensuous, delicious, great with rich fish dishes.——R.V.(11/1/2008)—— 91