The 2009 Reserva Branco is a blend of 40% Arinto, with Roupeiro and Antao Vaz equally dividing the rest. This bottling handles its oak rather well - not, perhaps, that it will thrill true oak-a-phobes. It shouldn't bother others, though, and it shows some crispness as the acidity (thanks to the Arinto?) pops through and gives the wine some grip, character and definition. I was surprised, but gratified, to see after an hour's air or so, a touch of lemon on the finish. This also seems fresh and surprisingly refreshing for an oak-aged wine, with quite a lot of charm as well as ripe fruit. This is quite nice, flavorful, but very well balanced, and nicely priced, too. Drink now-2014. This iconic Southern Portuguese winery has a lot of new labels this year, which generally look pretty good. The labels for the Reserva and Private Selection, of course, feature art by Portuguese artists - see all the back labels for details. The monovarietal wines now come with just a big letter or two on the front - like "S" for Syrah or "V" for Verdelho. The details are on the label in smaller print.Importer: Aidil Wines & Liquors, a division of Olde World Imports, Inc., Rahway, NJ; tel. (973) 642-0044; for Washington and Oregon only: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843

Smooth, unctuous and rich, this is a gorgeous wine that offers ripe peach and pineapple fruits to go with the fine acidity and hint of spice. Ready to drink now, it could age. ——R.V.(2/1/2011)—— 91