The 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Fran?aises is a total thrill to taste. Bright and finely sculpted, the VVF expresses all of the natural tension of the year in grand style. One moment it is the aromatics that are most captivating, then in another moment it is the wine's total balance that makes the strongest impression. Constantly changing in the glass, the 2008 VVF is one of those rare Champagnes than can hold the taster's attention for hours, or at least until the bottling is finished. Bollinger's tiny production Blanc de Noirs from ungrafted vines in two tiny plots totaling 0.36 hectares is truly mesmerizing in 2008. I can't wait to taste it next to some of the other iconic vintages. Harvest took place on September 18 and the wine was vinified entirely in new oak. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)