There are 7,000 cases of the 1996 Chardonnay Reserve. This wine started off in the glass as monolithic, but it developed magnificently, revealing medium to full body, and a spicy, saddle leather, smoked hazelnut, honeysuckle, and buttery-scented nose. This seemingly shy wine comes alive with airing, displaying layers of rich fruit, as well as excellent purity and equilibrium. In addition, it possesses surprising structure for a California Chardonnay. The wood influence is there, but very restrained. This wine should age well for 2-3 years.The Mondavi Chardonnays have moved from a full malolactic style to something that Burgundy's Jacques Lardiere (the oenologist for Louis Jadot) has perfected - partial malolactic fermentation for dry, rich, full-bodied whites. This is done in order to maintain a level of natural acidity and enhance the wine's stability. Tim Mondavi has increasingly advocated this position, particularly for the house's big whites. To do so, and also get the wine into the bottle unfiltered is no easy task, but the Mondavis have succeeded.Tel. (707) 259-9463 and (800) MONDAVI; Fax (707) 963-1007.