A tiny number of 2001 white Burgundies displayed the “nugget” of concentration found in the finest 1995s, such is the case of Leroy’s Corton-Charlemagne. This stupendous, medium to full-bodied wine explodes from the glass, revealing buttered pears, stones, and spices. On the palate, it exhibits stunning concentration, a layered, velvety-texture, and a pure, intense personality. Its spiced pear, mineral, spice, and honeyed nut flavor profile was accurately described by Mme. Bize-Leroy as being the “essence of Chardonnay.” Anticipated maturity: now-2018.Madame Lalou Bize-Leroy liked both the 2000 and 2001 vintages, stating that she was “rather pleased with the 2001s as they will bring lots of joy to those who drink them young” and that the 2000s “are candied fruit, reduction of fruit, the essence of fruit.”Many Burgundians chose to bottle their 2001 early in order to “trap” the fruit in the bottle, but Bize-Leroy beat them all to the punch, having completed the bottling process by early September, 2002. Typically an early bottler, Mme. Bize-Leroy felt that the 2001s would lose their fruit to either oxidation or the required sulfuring if left in the barrel for a longer elevage. Overall, Domaine Leroy’s 2001s are a success, though many were found to reveal stemmy, woody tannin in their finishes. If this characteristic melts away quickly, my scores on those wines will appear overly conservative.Importer: Martine’s Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

This is the third time that I have tasted the Corton-Charlemagne from Lalou-Bize Leroy. Here, the nose is a little more reticent than the last bottle in early 2012, but it opens immediately to reveal that rich, almost honeyed aroma, though here I notice a slight kerosene-like tincture. The palate is medium-bodied, powerful and very well-balanced with that core of spicy, honeyed fruit and a touch of glycerin on the weight finish. It is a sensual Corton-Charlemagne, but as I have commented before, it does not express the terroir with the clarity of others Leroy wines that I have tasted. Tasted May 2013.