The 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is the least youthfully reductive young white I have ever tasted from Domaine Leroy. Opening in the glass with scents of crisp green pear, lemon oil, white flowers, toasted sesame and struck match, it's full-bodied, multidimensional and incisive, with huge reserves of chalky dry extract that are more reminiscent of a red wine than a white, concluding with a long and penetrating finish. "This parcel ought to be planted to Pinot Noir," observes Madame Bize-Leroy, but I suspect that in such an eventuality the structure of the ensuing red cuvée wouldn't be all that different. Despite that structure and all the wine's energy and tension, this is a comparatively open, expressive vintage for the Domaine's Corton-Charlemagne.