The 2015 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Domaine Leroy opens in the glass with a bright bouquet of apple, lemon oil, wheat toast and smoke, framed by light reduction. On the palate, the wine is incredibly concentrated and intense, with a formidable structure and chalky extract that would be more familiar in a red wine and has a long, intense, almost searing finish. This was cropped at a mere 15 hectoliters per hectare, but while Chardonnay at yields like this can become overbearing, this Corton-Charlemagne—even in this sunny vintage—avoids any excess of weight or any trace of corpulence. It's built for the long haul.