The entry-level 2005 Amarone Classico della Valpolicella Costasera is made in a fairly straightforward, fresh style, with perfumed bright red fruit supported by silky tannins. This harmonious red offers excellent depth and lovely balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Masi is one of Veneto's most historic houses. I was pleasantly surprised by this strong set of wines, which far outpaces last year's offerings. Importer: Remy Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2204

Costasera, one of Masi’s most popular expressions of Amarone, can be depended on for its consistent quality year after year. This vintage offers concentrated color and pretty notes of toasted nut backed by cherry, blackberry and mesquite wood. The wine’s flavors are bright and fresh, the mouthfeel is clean and polished. ——M.L.(12/1/2008)—— 90