A cuvée which sees no new wood, the 2017 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Grand Montagne wafts from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tight-knit and searingly mineral, with considerable concentration and chalky dry extract, underpinned by a racy line of animating acidity and concluding with a long, tongue-tingling finish. This is a superb wine that will appeal to Burgundy purists.