The 2004 Gewurztraminer Brand evinces sweet pea, pear nectar, bergamot, violets and roses. Polished and silken in texture, juicy and engaging, it fills the mouth with sweet floral essences, and offers a wafting, satisfyingly juicy length, with the merest hint of sweetness and no heat. This displays the sort of elegance and refinement for which Jean Meyer’s Gewurztraminer has over the years been justly renowned. Under the viticultural direction of Jean Meyer’s son-in-law Christopher Ehrhart, this domaine has embraced biodynamic methods. Stylistic sensitivity, concern with cuisine compatibility, a special fondness for that underdog variety Auxerrois, and staggered release of wines continue to distinguish this fine estate, which in recent years has curtailed its negotiant activities. Many of the 2005 wines here were showing considerable reticence, which could represent a phase in their collective evolution. (Due to time constraints, I unfortunately did not have opportunity to taste the complete collective offerings of vintages 2004 and 2005 from this address, but any wine I tasted is referred to in the course of my coverage, even if it is not singled-out for a score.)Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. 847.604.8900