The 1997 Chardonnay River Block displays a pronounced roasted hazelnut, smoky, leesy nose that soars from the glass. This wine took a long time to ferment dry, and it may turn out to be the most complex (at least aromatically) of Tom Rochioli's 1997 Chardonnays. Rich and multi-layered, with hints of minerals, smoky notes, and gobs of ripe tropical fruit, it should be at its peak between 1999-2006. Sadly, only about 250 cases of the gorgeous single-vineyard Chardonnays have been produced. They are fermented with whole clusters, indigenous yeasts, and aged in a high percentage of new French oak. Finally, they are bottled with no filtration. Moreover, my instincts suggest these wines will evolve for 3-4 years, and last for nearly a decade. Tel. (707) 433-2305; (707) 433-2358