The 2005 Chardonnay River Block, produced from the old Wente and Hanzell clones, reveals scents of buttered citrus, crushed rocks, white currants, peaches, and tropical fruits. Full-bodied with zesty acidity (a characteristic of the vintage) as well as fabulous concentration and length, it can be enjoyed over the next 7-8 years. Kudos to Tom Rochioli, one of the wine world’s great guys who, without any fanfare, continues to turn out world-class wines of extraordinary aromatic and flavor dimensions. Previously recommended: 2004 Chardonnay Estate (91), 2004 Chardonnay Rachael’s Vineyard (95), 2003 Chardonnay Rachael’s Vineyard (94), 2004 Chardonnay River Block (95), 2004 Chardonnay South River Vineyard (96), 2004 Pinot Noir East Block (95-97+), 2004 Pinot Noir Estate (91-93), 2004 Pinot Noir Little Hill Vineyard (95-97), 2004 Pinot Noir River Block (94-96), 2004 Pinot Noir West Block (96-98), 2004 Sauvignon Blanc Estate (90). Tel. (707) 433-2305; Fax (707) 433-2358

This is the lightest of Rochioli’s Chards, body-wise, and the softest. It has a melted butter mouthfeel, but it’s a very layered, nuanced wine, with intense Meyer lemon, vanilla custard and smoky oak flavors, and has a gorgeous, voluptuous quality. ——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 92