The 2003 Taurasi Naturalis Historia is a relatively recent addition to the line-up made from 40-year old vines in the Mirabella vineyard. The Naturalis Historia is a big, opulent wine that reveals tons of varietal character, but with a more modern feel from the use of new French oak barrels. Scorched earth, game, spices, licorice and dark fruit all emerge from this sumptuous, elegant offering. The finish is long, sweet and pure. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2023. This is an impressive range of wines from Mastroberardino, one of Campania's historic properties. Importer: A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Naturalis Historia is an elegant and refined interpretation of Aglianico with pristine notes of black cherry, plum cake, spice, leather, tobacco and cola. It has a clean, polished feel with lingering mineral tones and softer tannins than your usual Taurasi. It comes in a beautifully embossed bottle that will also appeal to collectors.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 92